Coalition Restaurant Review- Excelsior Minnesota
Updated: Aug 24
Restaurants are back to full capacity after COVID-19, and so are their customers! It seems the restaurant industry is nearly back to its full vigor, minus a few kinks here and there.
With our favorite restaurants’ newfound flurry of guests, we've stepped in to visit and review several upscale restaurants around Minnesota. Our first stop is Coalition, located in Excelsior, Minnesota.
Here is what Coalition describes itself as:
"Coalition Restaurant combines an inspired menu with a casually sophisticated setting in a historic downtown Excelsior main street building. Coalition is the creation of Chef Eli Wollenzien and reflects his passion for cooking with a diverse and inspired menu." -Coalition Website.
"The menu takes its inspiration from classic American dishes like beef, lamb, pork, and walleye, creatively prepared, vibrantly presented, and influenced by cuisines around the world, reflecting the global, sophisticated, expanded palates of today." -Coalition Website.
First impressions
Upon entering the restaurant, the atmosphere was mid-scale, cozy, and inviting. What struck me right away was the extensive wine selection at the back of the restaurant.
The very first service issue we experienced occurred before we even got to our table. It took some time to be seated by what seemed to be the manager; the entryway lacked both a host and a host stand. There is no viable excuse for not greeting guests when they arrive- it gives a cold, unwelcoming feel. Coalition, being a medium- to high-class restaurant, seemed to choose a cold, uninviting welcome. Once greeted, we sat at a table near the kitchen. We were completely ok with it; I got a view of the kitchen, which is always a treat. After a table near us moved away, a manager asked if we wanted to move to a quieter table. I give this manager major brownie points; this is truly fantastic service and ensures guests have the best experience possible.
Service
Once seated, the service was dismal at best. After some time, we were greeted by a server who never asked how our food tasted. Our server only took our drink and dinner order and was nowhere to be seen again. Another server gave us our bill and wished us goodnight. Typically, I would credit the change in waiter to the restaurant being close to closing or a midday shift change. But this was a 7:00 pm dinner reservation… service should be at its prime.
Food
Upon our visit, we ordered the steam buns, shrimp scampi, smoked pork chop, and the chocolate torte with a raspberry coulis.
Our appetizer, the steam buns, was done exceptionally well; the buns were soft, and the pork was perfectly cooked with a touch of spice and balanced with crisp cucumber—a perfect start to the meal.
Then things went slightly south. The shrimp scampi was ok. Overpowered by garlic, it was difficult to pick out any flavors other than garlic. Each element was cooked well, just overly seasoned and drowning in sauce. It had potential but fell short of what it could have been. The smoked pork chop, for the most part, was very good. Slightly overcooked, but the flavor was there. My favorite part was the sweet potato, cooked to perfection, melted in your mouth, and had a wonderful maple or honey flavor to it.
Then there was the dessert… truly an utter waste of money. Now a chocolate torte is generally a denser cake, to define it simply. However, there is a difference between a torte and a brick; we were served something closer to the latter. It lacked flavor and texture and was nothing short of disappointing. Beyond the torte, the garnishing was lazy and inadequate. The whipped cream topping was clearly dispensed from a can of ready whip or cheap alternative. If a restaurant dessert involved whipped cream, there is no excuse to not have it be freshly whipped.
Overall
When all is said and done, would I return to Coalition? It’s hard to say. While it will take time for restaurants to reach their stride post-COVID-19, and every restaurant can have a rough night, it is no excuse that every dish should be consistently perfect.
When reviewing restaurants, it is important to put them into the perspective of what they are trying to be. It would be impractical to review an Irish pub in the same context as a 3-star Michelin restaurant. Since Coalition tries to be a mid-scale restaurant with slightly higher-end pricing, my review will naturally be more stringent. If someone is going to pay a premium price, they should get premium service and food.
I'm sure many of you have had wonderful experiences there, but I am disappointed with my time spent there. The restaurant has potential but needs to iron out some of the wrinkles in the system.
If I were to return, I'll be critiquing every dish and service interaction. As a result of my time in restaurants, I can be rather particular. I want restaurants to succeed, and I know their capabilities.
Overall, I'd give Coalition three out of five stars. It wasn’t bad, but they have an uphill battle to fight before they climb the ladder of our stringent standards. I'm strict for a reason; I want you, our readers, to be able to pick the best restaurants out there. Coalition did not meet the mark of being one of the best.
Cheers
Chef Olson
"The Flying Chef"
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